SV Revelation: 2010

New Zealand - Minerva Reef - Tonga - Fiji - Vanuatu - New Caledonia - Australia!!

June 2, 2010
Opua, New Zealand

Presently on Revelation in Opua, New Zealand. It's been a very busy 10 days since our arrival from Stockholm. We've been getting ready for our six month South Pacific Island cruise. We'll sail to Tonga, Fiji, Vanuatu, New Caledonia and end up in Coffs Harbour, Australia. Revelation is in great shape and we are set to go tomorrow with the weather window that we have been waiting for. We'll have drinks and say good-bye to our friends at the local yacht club tonight and then tomorrow head out. Plan is to stop at Minerva Reef (about 400 miles into our cruise) for a couple of days rest and snorkeling, then complete the 700 mile cruise to Tonga. Our crew, Kevin and Jan from Auckland, will join for our cruise to Fiji.

North Minerva Reef - 23°38'24"S; 178°54'54"W

Way out there in the Pacific Ocean between New Zealand and Tonga lie North and South Minerva Reefs. These reefs are a welcome refuge for cruisers underway between New Zealand and Tonga and Fiji. The challenge in approaching this refuge is finding the cut into the atoll where the seas are calm and a boat and crew can rest at anchor. Sharks also seek refuge here and breed. We were very excited to arrive here after leaving Opua, NZ and sailing for five days in rough seas and high winds. Our sails had gotten badly beaten from sailing close hauled and our nerves and stomachs were frayed from the roller coaster ride. Entering North Minerva Reef was exciting and a bit scary as waves broke at the edge of the reef. We found the entrance and navigated through the narrow cut into waters that were calm and welcoming. Immediately Revelation flattened out as we motored in. Off in the distance we could see a mast and were delighted to be sharing this atoll with another cruiser. We dropped anchor about 100 meters from our new neighbor and later that afternoon heard a voice on the VHF radio...Revelation, Revelation, Revelation....this is Vivace! We are coming over in 30 minutes with beer! What a welcome! We tidied up the cockpit and ourselves and looked forward to meeting fellow adventurers for sundowners and stories.

Our neighbors arrived shortly. The captain of Vivace, Hans, a ruggedly handsome German man in his late 70s boarded Revelation with his bag of beers and two women in tow. One an Austrian psychoanalyst and the other a youthful Dutch world traveler. Both were new to sailing and on their first passage. Hans noticed that Drew had an ace bandage on his knee and was limping. "What's wrong with your knee?" Drew replied. "I think I tore my MCL" to which he replied, "I am an orthopedic surgeon! Would you like for me to have a look?" Drew had taken a fall in the cockpit one stormy night when a big wave hit us and his knee took the brunt of the fall. So, out there in the middle of no where, cardiologist meets orthopod and a friendship of sailor / doctor was made! The diagnosis was that Drew's knee was stable and should heal with time! The evening festivities could now begin! It also happened to be Drew's 64 birthday the day we arrived at Minerva Reef, and as our guests couldn't leave our boat after sundowners because of a down pour, we proceeded to have one of the most memorable dinner parties to celebrate his birthday. I'd defrosted wonderful New Zealand rack of lamb, which we grill and prepared quinoa and veggies and creme brulee for dessert. Drew used the craftsman propane torch to caramelize the brown sugar topping. The effect was very dramatic and we celebrated with Kiwi champagne and Pinot Noir late into the evening. I'd found two beautiful New Zealand sheep skins that were my gift to Drew for his birthday. There still was a bit of a nip in the air at night and we enjoyed their warmth and comfort when we finally tucked ourselves into bed. What a night!

Vivace departed the next morning for Fiji and to our delight, as they were exiting the cut out into the rolling Pacific Ocean, we caught sight of another mast heading our way. Less than 50 boats each cruising season stop over at either N. or S. Minerva Reefs for a few days of respite before the last leg of a cruise to Tonga or Fiji. The boat that was approaching had also left Opua, NZ shortly after our departure. It was S/V Chiquita. A beautiful Swede boat, Captained by Ding and his crew Doris. Ding is a marine architect who spent his career as a marine survey with Lloyds of London. He also was a world class sail boat racer in his younger years. His life long dream of cruising around the world was now a reality. His journey began in England. He had already spent about five years sailing and living aboard his beloved Chiquita. Ding was an amazing wealth of sailing knowledge and experience. He and Drew spent hours discussing all things related to cruising, navigation, maintenance, and life at sea. Ding was also a very funny fellow and we enjoy his company immensely. His crew was from Auckland, New Zealand and she braved the shark infested waters of the atoll to try out her stand-up paddle board. She had impressive personal knowledge of every coffee house in Auckland.

The next sail boat to enter the reef was S/V E'Eva captained by Pascal from Switzerland. He was primarily a solo circum-navigator who was fleeing the confines of life and an engineering career in Switzerland. For his cruise to Fiji he added crew, Steve, a kiwi police constable from Auckland. We all spent 3 - 4 day resting, socializing, doing sail repairs. Pascal invited the entire group aboard his boat for dinner our last night. We sat shoulder to shoulder, very cozy in his saloon for spaghetti bolognese, insalate e vino. One of Pascal dinghy paddles blew overboard that night...The next day, with tremendous persistance and insight about wind and tidal currents, he and Steve retrieved their paddle. It had actually traveled several miles across the atoll and out the cut and into the Pacific. He found it just outside the reef! What skill and luck!

Jan at the bow looking for the cut into N. Minerva Reef

Entering N. Minerva Reef

Entering N. Minerva Reef

Entering N. Minerva Reef

Vivace in the distance

Low tide with coral bommies exposed

Vivace - departing for Fiji morning after Drew's birthday party

Vivace leaving for Fiji

Two days of head
sail and main repair

Rev's dinghi on the reef and S/Ys Revelation and Chiquita in the back ground

Pacific surf breaking on N. Minerva Reef

Pacific surf breaking on N. Minerva Reef

Reef life - Sea urchin covered with protective coral

Reef life - Sea urchin covered with protective coral

Reef life - Sea urchin covered with protective coral

Reef life - Sea urchin

Reef life - Sea urchin covered with protective coral

Reef at low tide

Drew exploring N. Minerva Reef at low tide

Coral formation

Coral formation

Sea slug

N. Minerva Reef

Lili exploring N. Minerva Reef

Giant sea clam

Giant sea clam

Our dinghy on the reef

Self portrait of us exploring N. Minerva Reef - a most exhilarating and spiritual experience

Reef shelf

Drew eating 2 minute noodles - rescue food. Best cure for sea sickness!

Our final dinner party N. Minerva Reef aboard S/V E'Eva,
Pasqual and Stave from S/V E'Eva, Ding and Doris, S/V Chiquita, Lili, Drew, Kevin and Jan, S/V Revelation

Kingdom of Tonga

Tonga, officially the Kingdom of Tonga, is an archipelago in the South Pacific Ocean, comprising 176 islands scattered over 700,000 square kilometres (270,000 sq mi) of ocean in the South Pacific. Fifty-two of the islands are inhabited. The Kingdom stretches over a distance of about 800 kilometres (500 miles) in a north-south line located at about a third of the distance from New Zealand to Hawaii. Tonga also became known as the Friendly Islands because of the friendly reception accorded to Captain James Cook on his first visit there in 1773. We visited all three island groups....Tongutapu, Haap'ai and Va'vau. We cleared customs in Nuku'alofa in Tongatapu...what an ordeal. It took us two days to complete all the formalities.

We didn't stay long in Nuku'alofa as we realized pretty quickly that there were better places to be. It was a dirty, corrupt, third world city with very few amenities. We were hustled on multiple occasions, but the most disappointing hustle came from our driver who toured us around the island one day. H e did a great job and was very informative. We saw magnificent blow holes, flying fox bats, the kings palace, attended a church service, collected coral on a remote beach all the while he gave a well versed narrative of the sight. At the end of the day as Drew was settling with him and preparing to give a generous tip he flipped the currency of the agreed upon price from Tongan dollars to US dollars! This would have tripled the cost to us. We discovered that this scam is often used by the locals to swindle foreign visitors. Drew stood firm against the fellow who was the size of a well fed Tongan rugby player and after 30 minutes of discussion paid only what was agreed upon in Tongan dollars. Disappointing after such a fine day.

Tongans were once the conquerors and navigational geniuses of the South Pacific. Now the Mormon church has a powerful presence here, and in the lives of the local people. The church controls resources, businesses and education. The country is governed by a corrupt constitutional monarchy and it was sad to see how this once thriving and powerful island nation had such poverty and corruption. On the bright side, Tongans love music and there is rich spiritual singing in the air. We attended service at the Methodist church in town and caught a glimpse of the King and Queen Mother. Men and women wear tapa skirts out of respect to the monarchy and the weaving of these skirt and cloths are very important and part of daily life and social status.

Sailing in the Haa'pai island group was incredibly challenging. It was our first time sailing in reefs so we had to learn to "read" the water and be very mindful with our navigation as this area is not well charted or accurate. Once in the more northerly Vav'au island group, we were able to kick back and hang out in Neiafu where we hooked up with our dear friend John Baudier. He arrived from Nelson, New Zealand with his crew a couple weeks after our arrival. We shared an anchorage for a couple of days and caught up on two years of activity. We also had an amazing visit to one of the villages and local schools, where the kids sang and practiced their English language skills on us. These schools have very few resources so it's tradition for cruiser to bring supplies and donate money. A very worthwhile and fun afternoon.

Nuku'alofa

Clearing customs

Service at the Methodist Church. King and Queen Mother in attendance

Fly fox bats

Ocean Jewel

Owned by John Baudier whom we met in Nelson, NZ

Getting fuel in Neiafu

Leaving Tonga for Fiji

Fiji

We caught our first mahi mahi on our way from Neiafu to Savusavu, Fiji! Wow! What a process getting it in and cleaned and prepared for the freezer!

We loved Fiji! It was a happy place filled with happy people who were kind, curious and most gracious. We felt very welcome by everyone we met and made new friends and had incredible experiences.

Our first mahi mahi on passage from Tonga to Fiji

Baracuda!

Savusavu, Vanua Levu

Drew snorkeling near Cousteau resort

Reef near Cousteau resort

Labassa Excursion

Excursion to Bouma Falls, Taveuni Island

Viania Bay

Dick Fischer...local chief and dive escort

Viani Bay - Our anchorage

Port Denerau and Musket Cove

Port Vila, Vanuatu

Mufalufa Village

Tanna Island, Vanuatu

Mount Yasur Volcano

Custom clearance in Lenakel

Fire walking in Port Resolution

Tanna Island - Toka Festival

Saturday, October 23, 2010
New Caledonia

Normally a Riviera like paradise, it is a day of rain and gray skies here in Noumea, the capital of New Caledonia. The wind has stopped howling with the arrival of the pitter-patter of raindrops on boat tops this quiet Sunday morning in Port de Sud Marina. It has been a surprisingly cool, wet spring here. The local French remind me of the Swedes as they flock to the beaches and their sailboats as soon there is a hint of warmth and the sun peeks out. Unlike the reserved Swedes, the French greet everyone with a “bon jour” and friendly eye contact. It's been interesting to see how French centric this country is and the traditions are very well protected! This is the first South Pacific Island we've visited that is absolutely monolingual - French. Even the most remote islands of Vanuatu are multilingual with English being the primary tourist and business language and French and Bislama spoken everywhere. New Caledonia strongly hangs on to all that is French and intends to keep this island nation as one of their own. I am very thankful for Google Translate and the little French I recall from my lessons in elementary school.

Weather permitting, I will visit the local aquarium today, take care of boat chores, go for a bike ride and swim and visit my neighbor. He gave me a bunch of bananas that he described as the best in New Caledonia, as he brought his fingers to his lips, gave them a big kiss, pointed to the sky, and thanked the heavens! Indeed, they were superb, unlike the bland, unblemished, genetically modified Dole variety we get in the US. These local bananas from the East Coast of New Caledonia are ugly, but they have a taste to die for…sweet, gooey and packed with flavor. Yum! They are divine for banana fritters or banana flambé with ice cream!

The banana man and his wife live on a catamaran across from me on “F” pontoon. I see them go to work early every day, come home to their boat chores and enjoy each other’s company over dinner, a baguette, a bottle of wine. Their laundry is usually pinned to the rigging and flapping in the breeze. Looks festive...like colorful flags flying. There is a shortage of affordable housing in Noumea, so the alternative for locals is to live on a boat in one of the marinas. This makes for a lively community that looks out for each other, share meals and gather regularly for sundowners. Mini veggie and herb gardens dot the aft decks of the long-term residents’ boats which adds to the vibrancy of these floating communities.

Noumea has been a good place to be while Drew is in Stockholm. Many South Pacific cruisers make Noumea their final destination before heading back to Australia or New Zealand before the cyclone season sets in. The anchorages and marinas are bustling, as is the VHF radio with gossip and chatter! There are plenty of cultural events, museums, restaurants and Baie de Citron for good swimming only a 10-minute bike ride away. Wind and kite surfing is very popular at Ansa Vata. The Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Center and Botanical Gardens are world class. Renzo Piano is the Italian born architect who designed this towering center perched atop the forested hills overlooking the South Pacific Ocean. It’s completion in 1998 marked the 10^th anniversary of the assassination of the Kanak leader Jean-Marie Tjibaou.

Noumea is a mini French Riviera. Haute-couture dress shops dot the Latin Quarter, the women are all skinny and dressed in the latest French resort outfits. I needed a wardrobe update to go the supermarket so I would not embarrass myself in my sun faded and hopelessly out to date cruising cloths! Everyone smokes which was a big shock! The French heavily subsidize New Caledonia and one cannot miss noticing the strong military presence here to keep it French.

Drew returns in two days. It will be great to have him back and prepare for the final leg of our cruising season. We plan on leaving Revelation in Coff's Harbor between Sydney and Brisbane. This will be our longest cruise without crew. We are excited to get this experience under out belts! The passage should take about 6 days to sail the 830 miles to Coff's Harbor from Noumea. We are excited to get to Australia!